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http://liveinpool.blogbus.com/logs/16956822.html

正说着呢，blogcup.net突然好了。。。MS还就是我生日那天= =

于是，存档！

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Marat爬喜马拉雅观察记[O.V.E.R.0920]

http://liveinpool.blogcup.net/marat/

新图一张 07.09.23

早上收到AC的短信，说抽猴又不爬了|||

这死人啊真是TT……枉我这么几天还每天帮你念叨……

不过我还是觉得这里面有点啥内情，不可能爬到一半觉得危险了不爬了，早就应该知道是什么状况吧？

虽然这事猴子是做得出来|||

我还是相信这就是他调戏我们算了……TT做猴子娘真不容易|||

可是他这一下来，肯定要被那些人笑啊。算了，他不Care就好……

唉……心情真真太复杂了

p.s.第二遍写的和第一遍不一样了，没办法TT

 —————–不爬的信/转达——————

Wednesday 19 September

Dear fans

I am writing this letter on behalf of Marat who has been in touch with me in the last 48 hours and asked me to pass on this message to you all.

As you know Marat has taken an interesting step because of various reasons which he explained in his letter to you last week. And it has been an adventure - doing his acclimatisation climb and getting used to all that is part of climbing mountains.

The delegation has reached the next height of moving to the base camp for Cho-Oyu and at this stage Marat has realised several points.

First of all Marat realised that this climb is a very serious challenging issue and not just an adventure. He loves the experience and is fully into it but realises that it has to be treated with great caution and respect. And the next step is a very big one indeed.

Talking to me and to the people he is closest to in the delegation and his coach via satellite phone - he has decided that the smartest and bravest decision for him is to step down and to start a very long 5 day trip back to travel down the mountains and back to Moscow.

In Moscow he will meet next week with Hernan Gumy and after a week recovering  from the altitude, he is meant to start practising again in about 2 weeks time. The wrist is well rested and all being well he will hopefully play again in Madrid.

Marat doesn’t believe he will be ready in time for the Kremlin Cup although he would like very much to play there. He needs time to recover from what has been an exhausting experience. From my conversations with him I was happy to discover that he has had a tremendous time and it was a fascinating experience.

Now it would be Marat’s main concern to be healthy and play professional tennis again soon as he misses it very much. We can soon expect to see Marat back on the circuit hungry for success and with a new fresh look at tennis.

I know it is very important for Marat to pass this message on to his fans and to say they will now be able to see him in the last part of the Indoor season and I can do this with delight.

Marat wants to thank all the great and amazing people in the delegation and his wishes that they will complete the challenge to the end.

While Marat is starting his long trip back - his fellow Russians will be playing in the DC semi finals against Germany and he sends wishes to them from the bottom of his heart for great success.

Best Regards

Amit

 ———————————————

 13号时候听说某猴爬山去了……没把我吓死|||

然后担心阿猜测阿啥都做了，自他前天写了封信以后放心了很多。好吧，你就好好爬吧，反正都到这份上了……

弄个页面观察他，这种百年一遇的事可得好好记录……

—————–之前的日志&之后的碎碎念———————–

“某猴你太抽了|||”

http://liveinpool.blogcup.net/2007/09/14/%e6%9f%90%e7%8c%b4%e4%bd%a0%e5%a4%aa%e6%8a%bd%e4%ba%86/

“我会努力在这四十天里每天帮你念叨一次，做不到就当我没说……= =

自己保重啊

……

天上地下山上山下的神明阿，拜托你们看好这只死猴子啊~~大恩大德这死猴子以后会报答的。

千万保佑他毛发无伤的回到花果山……”

07.9.17

就像AC说的，从知道到现在的心情是”从当初的震惊–不能接受–担心–小骄傲–现在到正式骄傲了”

真得很骄傲很骄傲

Marat要搁古代绝对是一大侠!

还是那句话阿，好好爬，听人家话别乱跑~毛发无伤的回来~

想想现在也在一个国家了~真想去西藏看他……

顺便BS下那网站竟然写country Tibet|||

—————–卓奥友峰简介——————

“卓奥友峰,也通常被称做“乔乌雅峰”，英文名Cho Oyo，海拔8201米，地理坐标为东经86.66°,北纬28.09°。卓奥友峰是世界第六高峰，它屹立在喜玛拉雅山脉的中部，东距世界之巅珠穆朗玛峰100公里，其北侧在中国西藏自治区定曰县境内，南侧于属尼泊尔王国。“卓奥友”在藏语意思是为“首席尊师”。
 ……

大体来说，每年6月初至9月中旬为雨季，强烈的东南季风带来的暴雨引起了频繁的冰崩、雪崩，造成山上云雾弥漫，冰雪肆虐的恶劣气候。11月中旬至翌年的2月中旬，因受强烈的西北寒流控制，气温可达－60℃，平均气温在－40℃至－50℃之间。最大风速可达90米/秒。只有在4月底至5月末，或9到10月这段时间，是风季与雨季相互过渡的时节，也就常有3—4次持续2—5天的好天气，这时便是进行登山活动的绝好时机

……

卓奥友峰的登山大本营可以直接乘车到达，而且一个攀登周期只需要6个星期左右，再加上相对简单的线路，所以它也被认为是所有8000米级的山峰中最为容易攀登的一座。到目前已经有超过1000人成功登顶该峰。同时由于卓奥友峰的攀登路线较为平缓清晰，几乎没有冰雪崩的危险，全部都是在山脊之上，很少有来回横切，所以这里也是登山滑雪者的天堂。”(转自网球网)

——————-相关网站&登山行程————–

http://www.7summits-club.com/ind … amp;action=showfull

http://www.maratsafin.com/content.php?did=10&aid=a6ed134d754c5eab209cc97635c8b874

Itinerary

——————Marat的信—————–

To all my fans out there - I am writing to you from Katmandu.
Yes a lot of you have heard already that I was on my way to my exciting adventure to climb Cho-Oyu, a mountain in the Himalayas in the Tibet.
I feel it is important for me to fully describe to you what has been going on with me in the last few weeks as well as what are my future plans.

It is  you guys who have always been an important role in my career and always been there to support me through difficult times and the oh so sweet victories. We have shared lots of times.

As you will remember I started the US Hardcourt season in Los Angeles where I also began my association with my new coach Hernan Gumy.

I would personally like to say that the co-operation with Hernan is an excellent one. I think he’s a great coach and I’m delighted with the work we do together. It is only thanks to the confidence I have in him that has allowed me to go ahead with this step that I have taken and to be where I am now.

Through out the 8 weeks in the US we really tried to work on my game again. To change my game tactics to where I will be playing again my old tennis style meaning playing faster tennis, shorter points, hard hitting and playing more on the baseline rather than playing two metres away from it as I felt I was playing the last 1 and 1/2 years. I really did feel that things were improving but unfortunately through the 1st round match at the US Open - I felt again the pain in my left wrist - the same one that first started bothering me in 2003. At first I wasn’t too bothered with that but during my 2nd round match, the pain got me out of focus and I felt that instead of concentrating on the match, I was solely thinking of the implications of going through all the pain and problems again.

My orthopeadic surgeon Dr. Feder from Los Angeles - flew into New York and examined me after the match. His diagnosis was a relief for me. He said I will only need 4-6 weeks rest. Luckily no extra damage had been made and I should be completely fine after that.

Talking with my coach we have realised that this season is over for me and we have made plans which I would love to share with you with regard to the preparations for coming back to next year a better player and stronger and in overall better shape.

When I got back to Moscow and my doctors in Moscow confirmed the same as Dr. Feder, the opportunity occurred to me to join the mountaineering delegation which includes some of my closest friends and I felt for the first time that this is something I really want to do outside of my tennis career.

This is not some simple vacation on the beach. I know that the physical challenge of climbing is huge. With the unique atmosphere and being away from civilisation - hopefully this will renew my resolve and my powers for tennis.

I want this to be a special experience and it is something which deep down inside I wanted to do for a long time.

Before leaving on this expedition, I ensured to close a deal with Gumy until the end of 2008 and only after he agreed and supported me in taking this step did I feel happy to carry on with my plans.

I have planned to be away for 4-6 weeks. I am truly very sorry that I will be missing the Davis Cup semi final tie which I am sure my fellow countrymen will be able to overcome even without me. At least I can say I have contributed a bit to the efforts with my trip to Chile in the beginning of the year and in the 1/4’s against France I played a small role in beating Mathieu.

Gumy and I are meant to get together in Moscow at the end of October to start practising and in early November we will fly to Valencia and possibly to South America to get properly ready for the new challenge in 2008.

I can assure you all my friends and supporters that I still have in me the desire to try and make it again to the top of this game  and I hope that all of you guys will be there to support me in my efforts to this.

I will definitely miss you all in the next few weeks and I ask you to support and cross your fingers for the success of my fellow Russians in the team in the Davis Cup semi final.

I will see you all again real soon. 

From me somewhere above the roof of the world.

Peace to you all

Marat 

——-真感人阿，Marat我……扭~
—————-新闻&图—————–

1. 中文报导

尼泊尔首都加德曼都13日消息,又有一支登山队向世界屋脊开进,不过这一次情况很特别,因为这支登山队里拥有世界第一,两届大满贯得主俄罗斯名将玛拉特-萨芬。现年27岁的俄罗斯沙皇对网球的热情似乎日益消退,对于玛拉特来说,攀上地理意义上的世界之巅似乎比重新在男子网坛找回舍我其谁的霸气更加有意义,或许,也更加可行!本周五,这位00年美网,05年澳网两届大满贯得主将跟随7名俄罗斯队友一起攀登喜马拉雅山脉的第六大高峰–卓奥友峰,希望在登山过程中体验生死命悬一线的刺激可以触动玛拉特日益干涸的获胜激情。 据尼泊尔登山协会负责人夏巴透露,萨芬一行共8位俄罗斯人,他们准备从周五,也就是本月14日始离开尼泊尔,开始准备攀登卓奥友峰。”这将会是一次非常有意思的旅行,因为萨芬的体能状况处于最佳。”夏巴这样评价这次登山行动。卓奥友峰位于尼泊尔和我国西藏交接处,海拔8201米,是世界第6高峰。卓奥友峰常年被积雪和冰川覆盖,曾被藏人尊称为”秃头之神”,要攀登这样的山峰无疑困难重重。夏巴认为萨芬有能力征服卓奥友峰:”他很年轻而且精力充沛,虽然登山过程充满挑战,但是我希望玛拉特能够收获胜利。
据这位发言人吐露,萨芬此次登山旅行将持续一个月,这也就意味着萨芬很可能缺席本月24号举行的印度孟买公开赛,而本月的俄罗斯队对阵德国队的戴维斯杯半决赛,萨芬参赛的机会恐怕也很渺茫。目前仍没有萨芬有关此次登山的评价,但是很显然沙皇正在努力找寻一个战胜自我的方式,尽管不是在球场之内。这支俄罗斯登山队队长阿巴拉莫夫认为萨芬此番尝试有助于他重新收获自信,阿巴拉莫夫说:”萨芬在网坛取得了许多伟大的成就,而现在他又将在世界第6高峰面前收获新的胜利。

2.

September 11, main part of members “7Summits Club – Alpindustria” expedition came to Nepal. This team will climb under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. The aim is to climb the sixth highest mountain in the world by classic route from Tibet side.
In expedition take part Russian Tennis star Marat Safin.

Expedition members:
Alex Abramov – guide and leader (9 Himalayan expeditions, 2 times Everest Summiteer, Cho-Oyu Summiteer)
Dmitry Moskalev – co-leader (5 Himalayan expeditions, Everest and Xixapangma Summiteer)
Alexander Chesnokov – co-leader assistant
Yury Beloivan
Konstantin Zhelezov
Igor Kosarev
Evgeny Semenov
Marat Safin – Russian Tennis Star

For Marat Safin this is the 1st mountain in his life.
Hopefully to his many victories in tennis Marat will add one more victory on the 6th highest mountain in the world.

3.

转自WQW:
W
俄罗斯驻尼泊尔大使馆为他们饯行 

 R0 dMás noticias de Marat en Nepal!!!!
Before the departure the expedition visited Russian embassy in Nepal. Took place fruitful conversation in the apartments of the ambassador of Russia in Nepal Andrey leonidovich It shas trofimovana to encounter so it was present one additional Russian command Valerie babanov and Sergey kofanov which outlined new route to the apex Jeanne.Alex Abramov9
Director of “7 summits club

4.

A. Abramov | 2007/9/16 - 03:28
FEXPEDITION ENTERED TO THE TERRITORY OF TIBET….

On 14 August command the “club of 7 apexes - Al’pindustriya” completed the passage through the border of Nepal and Tibet, after arriving in Dzhangmu. This is the small boundary city, located on the steep slope of mountain. Rains they here flow without ceasing. But the command not of promokla feels itself wonderfully, besides 1 persons… with crossing of border was delayed with the incorrect documents Yevgeny Semenov from Sakhalin, since he intended to cross boundary Nepal - Tibet not with the tourist group visa, but with the working Chinese, but vigilant frontier-guards did not release it.

Yevgeny they sent in the katmandu for the correction of errors and now it will overtake us with the break during 5 days. Good, that soon drops in the Latvian expedition and it will be neglected with them.

Road on to nials - the following point of our journey is closed to the repair and is opened only from 1 hour of night to 6 mornings. Therefore road along the route oppressed by trucks instead of the sleep today at night expects us.
 IAleksandr Abramov from Nialama (3600m)

2007/9/16 - 17:38
FIRST ASCENDING OF MARAT SAFIN

Today at night along the broken and loaded by trucks road, command moved to the town to nials (3600m) that standing in the gorge among the high mountains. After breakfast everything send to the acclimatizing ascending to the nearest apex Murat with the height of yay00m.(na of photograph to the right)

High wind blew and the rain went at the apex.
After going down from the apex, children warmly congratulated Marat, for whom this was subjugated apex very first in the life. Tomorrow in the plans of command passage into Shigar. town otoryy is located on height 4200m.

This morning we were requested with our sherpami, which trucks went forward on 2- X, that by the arrival of the command to establish base camp on height 5100m.

 KAleksandr Abramov 自Nialama (3600m)消息

—–第二段的翻译—-是AC翻的吧?

h2007/9/16 - 17:38
MARAT SAFIN的第一次登山..

今天晚上在废弃的满是卡车的马路上过夜，指挥全队行至到海拔3600米的小镇nials，这个小镇座落在大山的峡谷上，早餐过后，进行适应性攀登海拔4100米最近的顶峰Murat。

风刮得很厉害，顶峰上开始下雨。

从顶峰下来，孩子们热情地祝贺了Marat,这是他此生第一次征服顶峰。（果然没猜错，这人就从来没爬过山，爬了个小土坡就被热情祝贺 ）

明天的计划：指挥大家登上位于海拔4200的小镇Shigar，早晨请求sherpami用卡车把我们运送到2- X，到达以后指挥大家在海拔5100处建立大本营。

那句我笑抽了哈哈~~~

———————————-

During buying equipment for Cho-Oyu in “Alpindustria” shop in Moscow

Photo Left to right
Yuri Beloivan – expedition member
Alex Abramov – expedition leader
Ludmila Korobeshko – mountain guide, Russian female climbing star, 1st female climber in Moscow and 3rd Russian female climber on top of Everest
Marat Safin – expedition member, Russian Tennis Star

——————

到达那天

————

选装备

可怜的吊床|||不会真的是轮着睡吧……

——————-

餐馆鬼脸图|||

————–

这是去探测地形还是开爬了？

 MS是已经到西藏了阿

http://www.7summits.ru/index.php3?id=14&idi=473&action=showfull

还有些当地的图，没他就不贴了。

—-

你就没带件体面衣服去？！

————————-

—————————————–

红裤衩系列……别以后想到猴爬山就想到这裤子|||

—————–爬山最后的图——————-

帅的都骂不起来了……|||

——————07。09。20——————–

评论

哈哈,弄的真不错…..好好记录哦我监督你,以后再把他这壮举给翻出来留念留念…..

还有30多天,我们边紧张边骄傲吧~~!!

Posted 09月 17, 2007, 9:29 pm

大部分也是您的功劳啊哈哈~~哎~Marat真是太照顾我们了，还给我们留这么大一纪念^^

Posted 09月 17, 2007, 9:57 pm